Japan week 2
Our hotel room had, instead of a western bathroom set up, a Osen - a shower/bath set up that is very typical for this part of the world. I enjoyed using it in a relatively traditional way and also the privacy of it being in our room.
After an enjoyable breakfast we set off to the memorial museum to find a very long queue. So we decided that the wait was not quite on. Instead, despite the rain, we wandered through the memorial garden and saw the flame of peace, that will burn until all nuclear weapons have been destroyed or decommissioned. It is when great sadness that we all thought the same, it will never be extinguished. Then for our next mode of transport - a boat to an island - Miyajima. Sadly no view to speak of but the TV screen on board pointed out what we would have been able to look at on a sunnier day.
The island itself was beautiful even in the rain, with plenty to do for the day, a museum and shops to entertain us all well, we saw the famous floating temple (which isn't actually floating just looks like it) we did well to keep our spirits high as the rain really did it's best to dampen us. I decided that as I was already wet I'd take a very short paddle in the sea. No one followed me! The island has many free roaming deer and lots of trees and nooks to explore. Often you'd be only a few feet away from a deer seeking shelter, even in shop doorways. We wandered happily and had a great vegan meal and I treated myself to some unique jewellery and a little beer to hide away from the rain. The boat back was dry and so was the sky but not our feet so back to the hotel for a change of socks and clothes to warm up a bit before an evening out. We had a very pleasant night out, good food and good chats.
As Easter Sunday rolled in mum and I got up early for the hotel breakfast before finding a church, actually a cathedral. It was a long mass, due to a baptism but pleasant at the same time, all in Japanese including sign language. The building itself was stone with some abstract stained glass windows, and ones with images of the miracles. Other than that it was unadorned, with the exception of the large stripe of gold leaf stretching from the alter up to the ceiling with what was, I think, Jesus painted behind it.
We then met up with BigA and A who had visited a garden. Next a short walk through an art museum before ice-cream and coffee. A crowded bus took us to the A bomb memorial museum. Hard to see the artifacts and pictures of such a violent and aggressive act. All that suffering. Then looking out of the recovery - humans can sustain such pain. The mood was respectful and very quiet. I found it hard to read the he stories from survivors and recounts of last words. I felt a reluctant or perhaps redundant anger at the exhibition of the nuclear bomb and the pleas for mankind to stop producing weapons of mass destruction. With heavy hearts we sat in the sun for a time to absorb the magnitude and then, as all those before us have done, we got up and got on with the day.
The weather was very warm so this was a walk to another drink stop before getting our suitcases and heading to our last Shincansen of the holiday. I fell asleep on this one, some poor soul must have had to climb over me because he was there when I sat down and not when I woke. Then to our final city and hotel in Shin-Osaka. it had the biggest rooms and a view out over the city. Due to a craving for cheese we ended up going to a place specialising in it. It didn't disappoint on amount of cheese, perhaps quality - and despite ordering pizzas, BigA and A had something that was very different and extremely deep pan that was filled with melted cheese. This enjoyed, we weren't quite ready for bed and so, more out of curiosity than desire we popped into the British pub for a nightcap. Here mum did a classic impression of Mr Bean by knocking over one display and while turning to pick it up, thwacked the next one which fell too. Much laughing and wandering home, via a little shop to get milk and then to our beds.
There we had a lovely vegan lunch, mum was getting used to this, the best way to avoid unwanted seafood suddenly in the mix, and then and wandered towards another theatre for Bunraku - which is a traditional style of Japanese theatre with puppets. It was great, we watched for just 15 mins - the narrator sings and as it was all in Japanese we followed as best we could. The puppets each brought to life by three puppeteers dressed in black. The pitch and volume of the whole thing was loud and extreme, it was stylized and yet somehow a little camp. I loved it and was happy to have seen how it's staged and what the movements are like. 15 mins was enough for us. With a big grin on my face we did a bit more walking until a coffee stop - again us all drinking versions of things we haven't had or wouldn't normally choose, before we walked to a shrine that was unlike any we'd seen before. A giant face with wide mouth that was where you put your offering. Back at the hotel. We girls headed to the Onsen and after a free beer and slight relax, we headed into the women only section, got naked as the day we were born to have showers and baths. In hot and cold. Inside and outside and then a rinse off before back to our rooms, wearing the provided pjs. A new experience for us all.
After cooling down and getting dressed once more we headed out for the evening. And what an epic night we had. Sushi on the conveyor belt, another first for my mum and she was up for trying out various things on offer. I tried a few things I haven't had before, really enjoying some of the tuna and a delicious desert made of layered thin pancakes with cream and strawberry sauce and fruits. Next up a karaoke games bar. Mum and I serenading while BigA and A played electronic darts. It was a very small place but we laughed and clapped along with the other singers and bar staff. And then finally back for sleep.
Next morning at breakfast at a nice little place, mum and I realised we hadn't quite dressed for the weather so at the end of breakfast we nipped back to the hotel and got extra layers but praise be, no rain for the whole day. We navigated the almost impossible train system to get to the extraordinarily busy area of Osaka that is filled to the brim with smells, noise and sights. It's a little overwhelming at times. We did a big multi storey place, each floor with more stuff, more noise and more stimulation. Not my favourite part of the trip but still intriguing and an experience. Next we set off to fulfil my quest for Japanese pancakes and we almost got there but not quite. Instead lunch was a curry - Himilaian and very tasty. After mum paid the bill we thought we would take a look at the garden on A's app but her phone hadn't fully realised where we were so instead we ended up in a pinball game room, I've never seen so many. The variety was extraordinary and both mum and BigA were gripped with childhood memories as the stuck in coins and played, mum pinball wizard of course. Tearing them away we walked a fair way for our agreed event - sake tasting session. Down into a cellar at went and sampled some very tasty stuff, not completely to my taste but nice enough. Two bottles bought we then grabbed a taxi to the main event of the day but we'd got there almost 2 hours early so we went to a very sophisticated bar for cocktails and an eloquent and knowledgeable cocktail maker did his job.
So onto the sumo experience - each Japanese person we had mentioned this to, taxi driver included, had done all they could not to laugh at this choice but given the real deal wasn't possible we had booked for the slapstick version available. And it really was fun. With an audience of less than 50 people, 3 genuine sumo wrestlers and the commentary by someone who we never saw the face of, we cheered and watched and had our pictures taken after and we all had those grins you get after a very funny time. Not ready for bed (it was just 7pm Japanese time) we went to a small, very small karaoke bar. If you want my play list do ask. Belter after belter. It was so much fun laughing and singing and drinking. As the only customers we ordered and then did 6 belters. The lovely owner clapped each attempt generously and we had a - to our taste - peculiar pickled veg and tofu snacks. We laughed and laughed, sang and enjoyed the mega reverb before a taxi back to the hotel. I was shattered so decided to stay but A and BigA headed back out where they ate more deep fried cheese based food.
And so to our last full day in Japan. It's been such a privilege to be able to be here. Osaka is so busy, more than Tokyo - perhaps the days we have been in each city had an impact, but it really feels commercial and huge. We've walked through many streets and seen a lot. It's a sensory experience - you have to be ready for the various sounds and views and smells. No matter where you are, there's the sound of something, be it the stations playing their individual jingle or the pedestrian crossings tweeting the distinctive chirp for which direction you're heading. The machines play at you, regardless of which tune is nearby and this layered effect doesn't really stop until the quiet of your hotel room because each form of transport has an advert playing a tune on repeat and they are so often scaraen sweet. Osaka felt massive, it felt the busiest of places.
And then, as is the way of things, it was our last day. A and BigA visited the Onsen once more and I had tea in the room while getting my back packed up. Check out and a breakfast trip out via one last Japanese train. We took a stroll through a beautiful little park and then finally my pancakes quest was fulfilled. They are very light but even so only BigA managed to finish his. And then to pick up our bags and so soon we got the taxi to the airport. A (slightly unnecessary) dash in Hong Kong because the plane had a fault so we were delayed by just over an hour for a replacement, and one gate change. Bac on UK soil we waited a bit for our car but were soon home and we set about doing all sorts of things, mainly to try and stay awake, garden, washing, plants watering, food in the sun (so needed to help stave off the post holiday blues) After a few silly bits of TV and a kebab that BigA got us from a newish place around the corner we each in turn gave into the sleep. And yesterday, A and I woke up early so we decided to go get some flowers for the garden and do a quick food shop, then a day of other bits and things, mum woke up after a broken night's sleep and we had a lovely evening just watching TV and a bit to eat, together for a little longer. They are both leaving today!
so, what an epic Easter break - now to try and not stress too much about starting a job on Monday.
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