Island hopping

 We set off, a little sad because Gizmo hadn't returned. The journey was fine considering the state of the roads, navigating pot holes, goats, 3 little pigs and of course people. We made good time, Malawi looking its most lush and green, the orange earth mostly covered, long grass and ready to harvest maize mingling with the trees showing their yellow brush like blossom. This time of year the sugar cane is in full supply and those that can afford it chomp away, chewing the hard substance to get the sweet sap. 

The closer to the lake the more cars you see when fish dangling from their wing mirrors or windscreen wipers. Some huge campango - a type of catfish, almost as long as I am tall. The sky was the kind of blue primary aged children always seem to pick with fluffy clouds spreading far and wide. 

 Upon entering the wildlife park the scenery changed to the expected dense layers of grass and trees. We saw just one small family of water buck before we got to the lodge itself. As the name suggests it's located right next to the river. It's sound very comforting, and it's speed reassuring me that the crocodiles will not be popping by in the night- or day.  

After a light and late lunch BigA went to load some software on his phone and had to drive off to get reception. 

The hours rolled by, A and I playing cards and chatting. It got dark and still no sign of him. We settled down for dinner and still no sign. I was starting to get a bit worried, and then he appeared with some other guests, very muddy. The car had gotten stuck and he was happily rescued by the lodge owner - having to leave that car as the lodge owners was also then stuck. 

Our meal was delicious and then an earlyish night. We were woken when we were brought fresh tea and coffee. And then rain. Ours thoughts went to the stuck cars - more mud to contend with! But after a good breakfast BigA  and a team of men with spades headed off and with relative ease got them both out. 

As it was Easter Sunday I'd packed the Easter eggs I'd bought on my trip to the UK and was super excited to lay them out. I was half tempted to do an Easter egg hunt but there were too many other people around. A was almost as excited by me. 

The park doesn't have much in the way of game and so we didn't expect to see anything on our afternoon drive. A few birds, lots of flies but not much more. My social media detox easier due to the lack of reception. My faithful kindle lasting and a trusted pack of cards making the days feel calm and relaxing. A little bit of revision for A thrown in. 

On Easter Monday we set off for Mayoka village, a place we've been to a few times before. Full of beautiful and happy memories. It's set on the side of the lake with hundreds of steps mingling in-between small holiday rooms and more trees. The mango trees have grown and encroach further into the water which is now higher than ever before, taking up space and reducing the spots to sunbathe. The water a beautiful cyan blue, all set in a green and lush cove. Everything feeling relaxing and gentle. The music playing in the bar added to my joyous mood, Tracey Chapman. A and I singing to each other as we ate delicious food and waited for our room to be ready. A beautiful swim in the lake and more relaxing with good food and I finished my second book of the trip as BigA  and A went out on paddle boards. 

As the sun rose and we sat out on the balcony, drinking our tea and coffee, we heard the singing of what we suspect is a group of young Christians and they scuppered our plan for a morning swim. But for breakfast the staff had agreed to keep our leftovers from the meal we couldn't finish the night before. It felt good not to be too wasteful. 

BigA  and I have been bitten to buggery on the trip so far and we have spent quite a bit of time applying various creams to try and ease the frustrating itch. BigA  is a bit worried that it could be tsetse fly and they can carry a very nasty parasite that causes something called sleeping sickness. We're going to get blood tests when we get back so we can start treatment if necessary. 

We travelled the short distance to the boat that was taking us to Likoma Island and it was way fancier than the one we did years ago with the Wagner's. We left a little late but all seemed well, until it wasn't, suddenly going at a sail pace. So rather than arriving at 2:30 we got there nearer 5. But oh wow, what a place and we got upgraded to the most beautiful rooms with private plunge pool and all set into and made from the rocks of the island. It was the most beautiful place I think I've ever stayed and a truly fitting feeling to end our Malawi adventure. 

The fixtures and fittings are mostly made from found and repurposed items, our shower is half a boat, the light shades - sea glass, tiny shells make screens, all done with attention to detail and tastefully done. 

The next day we woke to tea and coffee being delivered to our room. The sun rising and the sound of various birds. We've seen fish eagles and lots of pied kingfishers. We walked from our room across rocks and wood bridges, watching the unfashionably coloured pinstripe of blue and yellow skinks scuttle off to find a hiding place. Then onto the grainy sand and across to the restaurant. The colours reminding me of the Greek islands, soft and vivid blues complimented by the white painted rocks and pale yellow of the sand. 

After a delicious breakfast BigA  and I set out on kayaks for a short paddle around the small rock formations and saw weaver birds busy trying to impress the ladies in their dances and I think the bears they have built. Then a day of reading, swimming, eating and a bath in the sun. The weather got more stormy as the day turned to evening and BigA  took advantage of the free use of ebikes to explore more of the island. He broke down and had to walk back and push it back, not easy in sand. The weather held long enough for our evening meal on the beach, the stars not as clear as the night before, when we had been treated to seeing the vastness of our Galaxy - trying to pick out the upsidedown constellations. 

It rained over night and the morning too, I smugly did some yoga before breakfast and felt better for the stretch. The storm continued to grow overhead but the warmth of the sun still got through and we sat reading and eating in our swimwear. A and I then headed over to the small tent like hut over a bridge that is lapped by water all around it for our spa treatments. BigA  had had one the day before. As we were pampered I could hear the thick-knees or weaver birds chirping signalling the rain and storm were passing on. 

 We were treated to a sumptuous lunch of falafel and fresh vegetables with a beetroot sauce and followed with a basil and pineapple sorbet. 

After a shower and rest we headed down to the beach to meet friends and get tipsy in the neighbouring lodge. A larger than life American (is there any other kind?) set about telling A why she needed to make sure her beauty didn't define her. Interesting to hear another woman impart what they feel is crucial advice on your child. Some of it seemed fine, some utter rubbish. I'm happy for A to take what she needs from it. Likely very little perhaps enough to have made an interesting time with a woman who insisted she won't settle and is determined to find real love. I didn't tell her real love is hard work at times and she should try someone who she could get on with. It's a good start! 

We then took the short walk back up our lodge to be greeted with yet another delicious 3 course meal, made all the sweeter by knowing that we had such a good deal. A small pack of friendly dogs had followed us and relished in my pork fat that we tossed to them. We had one off my all time favorite puddings - bread and butter, and I felt the genuine joy you get when on a great holiday with people you love and who love you back. 

While there BigA  taught the bar man to make a whiskey sour, I'm hoping they add to the menu as an BigA  sour. Don't ask how much the bar bill was. Last holiday! 

Yesterday we had a slightly earlier call because the boat was leaving at 8am. This time it was there ready as were all the passengers and it didn't stall so it took just 2 hours to get back. Car all safe and off we went to our final stop. It's always difficult to compare somewhere once you've had such luxury and beauty but this lodge is very nice, modestly beautiful and will do us well as one last stop before we head home tomorrow. Where we will have to come to terms with the fact that Gizmo hasn't come back. I don't think no news is good news in this case.